Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Buttonwood

I got this buttonwood from a friend and he offered me a "good deal" which I've come to consider more of a gift. Reason was because he didn't have time to train it as it deserves and trusted I'd do a good job on it so he practically let me have it.

When I got it, it was in bad shape, it had scale and leggy growth. I got it in early spring and after 2 months in my posession it still had no signs of buds.


Finally one day in April the buds showed up and I went into Edward Scissorhands mode and trimmed it all around and left two leaves on all the branches I chose to keep for the final design to promote back budding. After the new leaves reach 1/4" to 1/2" in length I plan to cut all the old leaves in half to and repeat as necessary to reduce leaf size, promoted back budding to bald areas and to densify leaf pads. The new buds will form in the axils of half-leaves remaining on the tree and emerge as a pairs of leaves.

***UPDATE 1 - 06/10/2009***


It's almost summer and my buttonwood is still budding all over. As it buds back I cut whatever is above the bud which is not going to be a part of my final design. Therefore, the energy is redirected towards the trunk and not wasted on higher up buds and leaves. I also got a new pot and is looking good what do you think?


UPDATE 06-26-2009


I'm doing windswept, wired all branches, and lime sulfured dead wood. Won't touch until next spring.


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Friday, May 29, 2009

Bougainvillea Treasure

This weekend I went Bonsai nursery hunting for a couple of hours, you know, mom and pop nursery shops with hidden treasures among their stock. After visiting a few, I ended up at an Asian nursery in Irving, TX. In their store entrance they had a small Bonsai stand with like fifteen 3-5 yr old Ficus and Junipers. These "Bonsai" were overpriced, had glued rocks in the soil and Home Depot's trademark shape that looks like an 'S'. After I looked at this stand for, I don't know 5 seconds, I re-focused on my mission and went to look at their stock out back.

20 disappointing minutes later (and yet common) I didn't find anything worth taking home and no hidden treasures and as I was heading out; a sign caught my attention..."Do Not Enter". It was their back room, and an employee was coming out of it so I browsed around until the area was clear then I made my move.

Once in the backroom, in a corner, I noticed trees piled together that looked like were dying and BINGO! Pirate found his treasure, I found 3 mother Bougainvillea trees (where they take cuttings to make new plants).They looked dead and were bone dry but had healthy foliage at the tips and green bark. I remembered it had rained recently so I knew they were in good shape. I looked around for any witnesses as if I killed someone and I pulled two of the ‘bodies’ out.

I called on one of the care takers who was Hispanic and maintained the nursery and after acquaintancing myself with him in Spanish, I asked him if he thought the owners would sell them to me. He said he didn’t know but did tell me they used them for cuttings. So he called on the boss lady and she called on the boss man and among themselves I could hear them go, "盆栽栽..Bonsai..盆栽盆"

I didn’t need to know what they were saying to realize they knew why I wanted them for and they would overprice it. Anybody else would have thought “what an ugly stump, get rid of it”. So I tried to fool them and made this expression as if to appear clueless about Bonsai, the same clueless expression I made once when my ex-lady saw a text msg from another girl on my cell phone. However, once again, the ‘look’ was useless and I admitted to them I wanted to train them for Bonsai. So she said “you can take one for $35” and I made my choice.

Once I got home, before it repotted it, I put it in bucket of rain water for a couple of hours while I messed around with other work. When I got to it, the first thing I did was cut a thick root that was growing out the drain hole. Having in mind the ‘vigorous look of the tree’, I didn’t want to mess with the roots much so I got a saw, cut it in half and then I gently felt around for thick roots to cut. I also noticed the legendary mycorrhizae on the root mass which I tried to keep as much as possible. I put it in a ‘grow box’, added some of my compost and topped with lava rock. I cut dead branches and left most of it intact and will ‘grow and trim’ as it back buds until I reach the main trunk by next season I hope, but who knows.

I still don’t know what I’m going to do with this piece but it will be good. I wonder what color the paper bracts are and I know I will be putting my dremel tool to use on this baby. This concludes EPISODE 1. Stayed tuned, coming soon EPISODE 2, in Spring 2011.

Part 2

Well it has been 2 long years (which consisted of 14 excruciating long days) since I last posted and said I would do any training on this treasure. This bougainvillea only had growth in the top when I found it neglected in the ground, took it home and repotted it. As it turns out, it responded very well to repotting so much it bud back all over to the main trunk. I figured it would take months to do so but it only took 14 days.

As you can see I removed more dead branches which I could have removed on the first session but sometimes you just have to wait. You see, you can look at a tree one day and not see anything you can do...YET. But then one day you come out to water it and then IT HITS YOU AND YOU SEE IT. It's like a mathematician trying to solve a very difficult problem but he can't solve it so he just sits there idle but then he figures out a way to answer it and he starts writing on the board like a maniac.

Same with Bonsai when it hits me, I start to prune away like Johny Depp in 'Edward Scissorhands', seen that movie? Anyway, at first it was better to not prune so much for maybe a seemingly useless branch might fit in a design I had not seen yet or someone else might bring to my attention. In the same way, a seemingly useless branch might be just that and end up being pruned anyway but always lean towards less pruning as opposed to over doing it.

I also hollowed out one of the branches which had bud also and was extremely careful to get not even an inch near it. That bud actually survived and still growing. So that concludes this session and now I will wait and continue to clip and grow and ramify. I will have another training session next spring (for real this time).


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Friday, May 22, 2009

Desert Rose

Adenium obesum - Desert rose It is an evergreen succulent shrub in tropical climates and semi-deciduous to deciduous in cloder climates.
You will have to use a xeric watering regime much like watering cacti. Plant in an acid soil mix with plenty of peat moss and coarse sand. Make sure your soil mix drains really well.

Responds to sunshine and fertilization, I like to use time release pellets.Blooms all year long in temperate climates.

Pests: Aphids usually can be eradicated with safe soap, caterpillers can occasionally defolliate a shrub, but not to worry it will grow new leaves back.

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Friday, May 8, 2009

Special: Pineapple guava


I have a Feijoa (pineapple guava) which I have cultivated , it has bloomed for me only 4 times in the last 10 yrs. none of the blooms have fruited. However the blooms are spectacular & makes it a special event when it does bloom. My pictures will follow out the article from wikipedia:

Feijoa

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Feijoa
Pineapple Guava Feijoa sellowiana fruit
Pineapple Guava Feijoa sellowiana fruit
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Plantae
(unranked): Angiosperms
(unranked): Eudicots
(unranked): Rosids
Order: Myrtales
Family: Myrtaceae
Genus: Feijoa
Species: F. sellowiana
Binomial name
Feijoa sellowiana
O. Berg
Synonyms

Acca sellowiana

The Feijoa (pronounced /feɪˈhoʊ.ə/)[1] (Feijoa sellowiana), also known as Pineapple Guava or Guavasteen, is an evergreen shrub or small tree, 1–7 metres (3.3–23 ft) in height, originating from the highlands of southern Brazil and parts of Colombia, Uruguay and northern Argentina. It has been spotted in Georgia and both flowering and fruiting in Lafayette, Louisiana and in Charleston, South Carolina, and California. It is widely cultivated as a garden plant and fruiting tree in New Zealand, and can be found as a garden plant in Australia.


[edit] Description of fruit and plant

Whole and cut feijoas.

The fruit matures in autumn and is green, ellipsoid-shaped and the size of a chicken egg. It has a sweet, aromatic flavor. The flesh is juicy and is divided into a clear jelly-like seed pulp and a firmer, slightly gritty opaque flesh nearer the skin. The fruit drops when ripe, but can be picked from the tree prior to the drop to prevent bruising. The genus, also called Feijoa, is monotypic. Like the closely-related guava, the fruit pulp has a gritty texture which is utilized in some natural cosmetic products as an exfoliant. Feijoa fruit have a distinctive smell. The ester methyl benzoate smells strongly of feijoas and the aroma of the fruit is caused mostly by this and other closely related esters.

German botanist Otto Karl Berg named Feijoa after João da Silva Feijó, a Brazilian botanist.[citation needed]

[edit] Growing conditions

It is a warm-temperate to subtropical plant that will also grow in the tropics but requires some winter chilling to fruit and is frost tolerant. In the northern hemisphere it has been cultivated as far north as western Scotland but does not fruit every year, as winter temperatures below about −9 °C (16 °F) will kill the flower buds. Large quantities are grown in New Zealand, where the fruit is a popular garden tree and the fruit is commonly available in season.

[edit] Consumption and uses

The fruit is usually eaten by cutting it in half, then scooping out the pulp with a spoon.[2] The fruit have a juicy sweet seed pulp, and slightly gritty flesh nearer the skin. The flavour is aromatic and sweet. If the utensils needed to eat it this way are not available, the feijoa can be torn or bitten in half, and the contents squeezed out and consumed.[citation needed] An alternative is to bite the end off and then tear the fruit in half length ways, exposing a larger surface with less curvature. The teeth can then scrape the pulp out closer to the skin, with less wastage. They can even be eaten whole, with only the junction to the plant cut off. The skin is sour and can be bitter, but provides a nice balance to the sweet pulp. Still, this is a less common method in some countries, but in Latin America, the fruit's homeland, it is often eaten this way.[citation needed] A feijoa can also be used as an interesting addition to a fruit smoothie, and can be used to make feijoa wine or cider and feijoa infused vodka. It is also possible to buy Feijoa yogurt, fruit drinks, jam, ice-cream, etc. in New Zealand. The Feijoa can also be cooked and used in dishes where one would use stewed fruit. It is a popular ingredient in chutney.

Cut over-mature fruit

Fruit maturity is not always apparent from the outside as the fruits remain green until they are over-mature or rotting. Generally the fruit is at its optimum ripeness the day it drops from the tree. While still hanging it may well prove bitter. Once fallen fruit very quickly become over-ripe, so a daily collection of fallen fruit is advisable during the season. When the fruits are immature the seed pulp is white and opaque, becoming clear and jelly-like when ripe. Fruits are at their optimum maturity when the seed pulp has turned into a clear jelly with no hint of browning. Once the seed pulp and surrounding flesh start to brown, the fruit is over mature and shouldn't be eaten. However, these over mature but not rotten fruits can be used to make a delicious juice very popular in places like the Colombian Highlands.[citation needed]

The pink to white flowers petals have a delightful flavor, are crisp, moist, and fleshy,

[edit] Shipping and sale

Ripe fruit is very prone to bruising; maintaining the fruit in good condition for any length of time is not easy. This, along with the short period of optimum ripeness, probably explains why Feijoas, although delicious, are not widely exported, and where grown commercially are often only sold close to the source of the crop. Feijoas can be cool-stored for approximately a month and still have a few days of shelf life at optimum eating maturity. They're also able to be put in the freezer up to one year without a loss in quality. Because of the relatively short shelf life store keepers need to be careful to replace older feijoas regularly to ensure high quality. In some countries, feijoas can also be purchased at roadside stalls, often at a lower price.

[edit] Cultivation

Feijoa flower

Some grafted cultivars are self fertile. Most are not, and require a pollenizer. Seedlings may or may not be of usable quality, and may or may not be self fertile. In New Zealand, the pollinators are medium sized birds such as the Silvereye in the cooler parts of the South Island, the blackbird or the Indian myna further North, which feed on the sweet, fleshy petals of the feijoa flower. In some areas where the species has been introduced, it has been unproductive due to lack of pollinators.
In northern California, robins, mockingbirds, hummingbirds, starlings, scrub jays, towhees and grey squirrels feast on the petals and can be assumed to be assisting with pollination. Honey bees also visit the flowers.


This is my Pineapple guava



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Sunday, May 3, 2009

Boxwoods

I was on my way back from running a errand when I spied an old pickup truck with a load of shrubbery so I stopped & asked the owner when did you dig those up?. This morning he replied I was going to plant them in my yard. It was past 4 p.m. Hmm, I thought oh well I could chance it, old boxwoods are pretty tough shrubs!

I asked if he would consider selling some of them? Make me an offer I can't refuse he said. I dug around in my pocket & came up with $18.00-how about selling me three of them? I don't have any more money with me. Look in your wallet,he replied. I don't carry any money in my wallet,$18.00 is all I have. He said ok. I picked the three I thought would have the best chance of surviving.


This what they looked like before pruning the roots and foliage. While I was working on one I stuck the others into rain water so the roots wouldn't dry out.



This is the foliage that was cut off the 3 trees.


The results of the initial pruning of the roots and foliage & potting up .they will remain in these pots for 1 to 2 yrs if they survive. They will continue to receive top pruning after they sprout new growth; and further shaping after 1 yr.
I will post pictures periodically on their there progress.



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Tuesday, April 28, 2009

Pinus Mugo

Mugo Pine after early spring repot, bud selecting and minor candle pinching. No major styling because pines are to be insulted once/twice per year. So will pinch more in the fall and style/see where I go with this next spring. Make me an offer, might sell.

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Wednesday, April 22, 2009

Crepe Myrtle Bonsai


Hey Ray here is my Myrtle after repot and trim.






But the one I was refering to was this one, do you still have it?

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Saturday, April 18, 2009

Spider Mites


I had a customer come by, a new comer to bonsai. He had received a gift, a bonsai juniper! He was concerned because his girlfriend had given it to him & he didn't want anything to happen to it. He had a lot of questions, I told him how to water, fertilize, trim & shape also that it would need to be re potted every 3 to 5 yrs. and to keep it outdoors.

He said will you look at it, it's in my car? When he got it out I could see it was infested with spider mites. The tell-tell signs were there, yellowing needles,the graying over all look of the tree. I took a blank sheet of paper & placed it under one of the branches & thumped the foliage. Sure enough you could see the mites scurrying about on the paper.

I'm not going to go into great detail about spider mites. I'm not going to tell you how to eradicate them because you can't! I will tell you how to get them under control. They have a very fast reproductive cycle. They lay eggs which hatch every 5 to 7 days so you need to spray them every 3 to 5 days to kill the adults & the newly hatched larvae. After 2 to 3 cycles you'd think you had taken care of the problem but alas a new crop of mites would be blown in on the next wind!

Be sure to read the labels and follow directions!!!

The best method of controlling them is a systemic insecticide. It is absorbed thru the root system & carried out to the rest of the tree. Orthene, isotox are good examples of systemics for mites. Malathion, diazion, & kelthane are good contact poisons for mites.

If you don't like using poisons there are oils & soaps which can be used. Summer oils are lighter than the traditional dormant oils used for winter. Summer oils can be used thru out spring & summer. Each is effective in smothering pests and their eggs. examples: sun spray ultra fine oil, volck oil spray. Soaps sprays: insecticidal soaps control insect pests by penetrating their cuticles,which causes their cell membranes to collaspse thereby causing dehyration resulting in death. Household dish detergent, 1 tablespoon per 1 gallon of water can be used to spray your trees, or you can purchase commerical soaps like "safe soap".

There is another preventive called "garett juice" a foliar spray but you can make your own 1 tablesoon each of : fish emulsion, liquid kelp, molasses, apple cider vinigar, added to a gallon of water.

Use what ever you choose to but remember to be vigilant thru out the year --happy spraying.
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Monday, April 13, 2009

Chinese Elm

Chinese Elm before and after repot.


This is what I potted it on:

I set a base layer of lava rock size 1/4th of an inch as drainer, followed by a layer of organic compost around the root system topped with worm castings. Then I filled the pot with a layer of my mix which is 1/8th -1/4th sifted lava/pine bark/Akadama and topped with a thin layer of 1/8th calcined clay for dressing.


I also trimmed all the twigs and left the 2-3 leaves per twig (which are the smallest) which took about 2 hours, to induce leaf reduction.


UPDATE 06-23-2009


Now that the tree has settled in the pot after the repot and has strong new growth, I wired all of the branches which took about 2 days (4 hours total). And took a nice pic.



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Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Pomegranates


These are pomegranates that were dug from my raised bed in Feb 2009. They haven't been trimmed yet and were bare rooted & potted into these containers where they will remain for 1 year. In the mean time they will be trimmed & styled and next year they will be root pruned again and placed in a bonsai container.

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Sunday, April 5, 2009

Trident & Japanese Maples


Hi I'm sorry it took so long to post these pictures but I'm working from a new computer & new photo equipment but anyway these pics are of my japanese & trident maples that were dug from my raised bed in febuary 2009.

They were bare rooted & potted in lava rock a layer of compost along with worm castings & covered with more lava rock. Fertilizer cakes were used the last two weeks of March. I'll post new pics of more of my maples and twisted pomegranates,soon! Ray.

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